Curry Leaf @ Colombo Hilton | Sunday Observer

Curry Leaf @ Colombo Hilton

10 December, 2017

Being Sri Lankan, one often takes for granted the culinary heritage of our country. With many other “regional ethnic” dining choices eating “Sri Lankan” can at times be submerged in our decision making.

So on a Tuesday evening I sought some solace from our editorial blues with my colleague and headed next door to the Hilton.

The Curry Leaf has been around for more than two decades. Right at the entrance you get a sense of déjà vu: the sight of a parked black bicycle from where gram is served in a sheaf of paper.

This little delight is reminiscent of our childhood. The entire venue is alive with an assortment of gastronomic fragrances. One of the first things you spot is the seafood display - a fresh array of fish, prawns and crabs. Cooks are busy preparing these deep sea delights.

The restaurant has two options: you can sit outside under a large thatched roof or inside. From either point you can observe the vibrant display of native cuisine. The manager recommended a cocktail with a dash of arrack, passion cordial and fresh lime.

Another hit here is the Thorana Splendour - a mocktail made with the juice of five fruits. The menu has been curated by Chef Amila, under the guidance of Executive Chef Kazi Hassan. It was surprising to note that Chef Kazi had grown a patch of vegetables on one side of the venue: chili, brinjals, pine apple and some herbs.

Chef Amila has mentored his team to make food with elegant showmanship, a crucial role that makes your dinner very interactive.

The signature dish at Curry Leaf is the Lagoon Crab. The crab is succulently transformed into a taste laden dish. One has to ‘get into it’ as my colleague said using both hands. At this point a steward gives me a white apron on which is emblazoned a ‘chubby smiling crab’. Ah we did get into it - the crab was delicious.

The next round of local delicacies was fried fish and savoury cuttle fish. The prawns were nice, but the dark brown colour gave it a ‘clouded’ visual appeal. The round vadai made by Chef Saba was super. This amiable chef adds his range of Jaffna food to the buffet: increasing its value and attraction. Actions stations served hoppers, kottu rotti and the ‘lensu’ thin rotti.

Chef Amila must be given credit for redefining the humble hopper: he makes them with variation using cheese, honey, coconut milk, beetroot and carrot. The signature one is the omlette hopper. This is the kind of culinary display that makes good impressions on foreign guests, who have their ‘first’ native food encounter. The ‘thumbakarawila’ a traditional vegetable was on offer, but had a tad bit extra saltiness.

Another stop is the ‘Kavum-kokis’ station where two mature women confidently turn out these local sweets. A calypso band gives out fine renditions of Sinhala hits from yesteryear.

After indulging in some excellent cultural dining, the meal concluded with a ‘ginger plain tea’.

The buffet is absolute value for money. The Curry Leaf, open daily for dinner is a culinary gem in the heart of Colombo, and makes you proud to be a Sri Lankan.

Comments