Japanese food is making an impact globally. It is part of perhaps an oriental resurgence. To the Sri Lankan culinary senses the flavours of Japan would take some time to sink in, be appreciated and truly enjoyed.
While there is a mélange of Chinese restaurants in our island the search for authentic Japanese cuisine ends when you enter the Ikoi Tei located in the beautifully restored Dutch Hospital in Fort. The restaurant has some elements of the colonial interior, which is the theme of the restored Dutch building. This offers an interesting contrast, as one would perceive to see oriental lanterns and women clad in kimono. There are two magnificent detailed paintings of the Dutch Forts found in Japan. The high black ceiling adds a unique aura to the interior.
I met up with Japanese Chef Hiikaru Takahashi, who during his two year stay at the Hilton has mastered the Sinhalese language, which was surprising, but also displays the genuine passion he has for our country and how much he wanted to blend in with our culture. Steward Janith, attired in the typical uniform one would find in the sushi restaurants of Japan, explained the extensive beverage list. The traditional junami sake and Plum sake were served. The Plum sake is one of the finest renditions of sake I have tasted over the past decade.
It has a brilliant aftertaste that explodes with the perfect balance of citrus and sweetness and was very refreshing on a hot Monday afternoon. Served in a black hard clay sake pot it is the best way to begin your indulgence.
Next on my lunch menu was a tray bearing a range of tempura items - prawn tempura rolls, moriawase and unagi kabayaki. This was supplemented by a platter of salmon sushi and tuna rolls. The mild green wasabi sauce, with its defiant fiery flavour sustains that sense of adventure, even at lunch. The options for the main course dishes were very good. I asked Chef if he had plans to introduce the legendary Kobe beef of Japan. At present this prime cut of steak was not on the Ikoi Tei menu. Chef surprised me with another recommendation - grilled eel. This was not something I expected in Colombo (or in any part of our island for that matter) and certainly not for lunch! But, when I tasted the grilled eel it was succulent and really captured the marinated essence of the Japanese kitchen. The perfect level of moistness and the opulent golden brown of the fillet show the prowess of this young chef. The Pork Katsu came in a nice ceramic bowl; again the serving dishes always capture the cooking traditions of each nation.
The pork could have yielded a darker visual appeal but the dish was tasty. Another option for lunch is the bento box, arrayed with its own pockets of food. I concluded the lunch with a black sugar ice cream that was infused with grated jaggery. The glass of green tea heralded the end of this indulgence. Ikoi Tei is a lovely venue and offers a meal experience that is a nice contrast to our routine rice and curry.