Island of the Cross | Sunday Observer

Island of the Cross

26 January, 2020

 

I have been going to church for three decades, but last week for the first time in my life I went to church by boat. As some would know the Northern Province has many islands - large and small. On the way to the island of Mandaithivu is a unique little island known in Tamil as Kurusaiaddithivu- meaning Island of the Cross. This island has a shrine dedicated to St. Anthony and is venerated by the fishing community who thrive on the bountiful sea. I had decided to visit this island somehow along with my friends Fr. Michael Prabu (Order of Salvatorians) and Fr. Jeban (Congregation of the Rosarians).

 

 

Unlike visiting other Northern churches you cannot simply walk or take the bus to this venue. One has to consult the local fishermen and check the level of the tide, in order to enjoy a safe visit. Thankfully, on that Tuesday morning we got word that the sea was safe. We were joined on this journey by Fr. Eric who was visiting Jaffna from Anuradhapura. It must be mentioned here that he has come to Jaffna to study Tamil - something commendable which shows the genuine desire of the Catholic Church to foster ethnic harmony.

We arrived in the fishing village of Navanthurai and proceeded to St. Nicholas Church to meet the parish priest Fr. Arasaratnam. It is under this main church that the island shrine is also vested. He kindly gave permission for us to enter the island. Due to the inconsistent weather conditions mass is celebrated once a month on the island. Fr. Michael had organised a boat. We walked to the jetty, where many fiber glass boats were berthed.

A large wooden canoe stood out like a relic from the past. Sea gulls and crows were hovering about.

On seeing three clergymen in white cassocks some fishermen eagerly gathered at the jetty. The boat operated by Damien was brought alongside the wooden platform and we got in. The engine slowly sputtered to life and we began our adventure.

In the past I had been on many naval boats but this was the first sailing experience with three Catholic priests! This part of the sea had clusters of nets placed with poles where villagers gathered prawns.

This is an ancient form of prawn harvesting. Onto our left side we could see the bridge leading to Mandaithivu and the sentries from the nearby naval detachment.

As our boat neared the island an imposing statue of Saint Anthony was visible, mounted on a cement pedestal. The pedestal had two fish etched onto its surface showing the strong affiliation between the shrine and the local fishermen. The island had many large trees and was covered with tropical reeds.

As we walked along a narrow path a massive crucifix made us halt and gaze in awe. Standing at almost 15 feet the cross made by combining two logs, had the figure of the crucified Jesus, made with cement.

A pile of rocks surrounded the cross. Damien told us that the cross apart from being a spiritual reminder of Christ’s death also served as a signal point to those sailing these waters. We walked through the reeds and suddenly the shrine loomed into view. The building was painted in a shade of pink, with three wooden doors. Fr. Michael unlocked the door and some pigeons flew out of the chapel. The main altar was embellished with a painting of Jesus on the cross with cherubim’s and angels on each side.

The left side had a statue of Saint Anthony and the right side was taken by Saint Sebastian. Incidentally, many of the churches in the Northern Province are named after Saint Sebastian. The simple chapel had extended pillars on either side. During the annual feast many fishing families from other islands like Delft, Allapiddy and Kayts sail here. These faithful families manage to stay on the island for three days. They cook and share their meals, sleeping out in the open under the stars.

The sound of a boat’s engine was heard. Shortly after, three young men attired in shorts came ashore. These were friends of Damien and were going past the island when they had spotted his boat. They exchanged greetings with the priests.

The noonday sun spread its rays across the island and it was time to eat some biscuits and enjoy a refreshing bottle of water. Fr. Eric visiting from Anuradhapura was totally overwhelmed by the solitude of this beautiful island. We noticed aquatic birds perched on a large tree.

Damien’s friends offered to prepare some prawns which they had in their boat but we politely refused. After locking the chapel door, we found our way back to the boat. I jokingly told the clergymen that we had sailed like Jesus and his disciples. As Jesus had selected his first disciples from the fishing community.

As we looked back we could see the massive cross standing like a spiritual compass reminding the young fishermen of God’s love and protection. When we reached the jetty some fishing families had gathered, whilst some innocent little kids greeted me saying “God bless you father” much to my surprise.

After thanking Damien we left the jetty and boarded our van. The young men and women of Navanthurai live a simple life but remain happy. The visit to the Island of the Cross would be one of my treasured journeys. The life and faith of these humble fishermen was most inspiring.

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