Food is synonymous with celebration. Festive cheer has this tendency to vibrantly invade the kitchen and bring out the most creative and succulent cuisine. After all man is a social being, who derives pleasure from the company of others, supplemented by food and drink. This at times extends with assorted amusements to include the pulsating display of a female dance troupe! Of course the latter is certainly not a yuletide custom!! Joyful Santa beats them all.
Christmas cuisine is a broad spectrum that covers all the continents. The origins of this cuisine would be somewhat hard to trace, in a historical sense, as each country has its own recipes, that would be rooted in that particular cooking tradition and availability of prime ingredients. Judaism does not have a Christmas menu. Many nations have been strongly influenced by prominent yuletide dishes of European origin, simply from being colonized by the once majestic British Empire, which has today been redirected to relishing fish and chips since their dilemma with the prolonged saga of Brexit! I am sure the more erudite Englishmen will enjoy their custard coated Christmas pudding.
The medieval pudding making method used 13 ingredients to represent Christ and the 12 disciples. The Austrian Sacher Torte created in 1832 is the world’s most desired chocolate cake during Christmas. It was first made by 16 year old Franz Sacher for Prince Metternich.
The traditions and customs of the kitchen in ancient Ceylon, a once predominantly Buddhist nation ruled by glorious monarchs had their own culinary competencies. The royal courts were famous for regal feasts that went on for days. Our ancient cuisine was the original organic food. The new hype about organic food is at times mildly annoying .
Our skills of consummating spices was far more superior to that of the defiant Portuguese and Dutch. Yet, change is inevitable, and some opine that change takes courage.
Gosh, it would take much courage to eat the fare of an unskilled cook! So it was that the eating habits of the Portuguese and Dutch established themselves within our culinary domain. This was supplemented with ‘fire water’ a remarkable reference to wine and other distilled forms of liquor. I first came across this phrase ‘fire water’ during my visit to the Cherokee Reservations in the United States. For the Native American Indians it was rejoicing everyday as they embellished their bosoms with much drink! Coming back to good ole Ceylon the Burgher community, who once made a significant contribution to our nations’ development also left behind their mark on what we desire today as, ‘Christmas specials’, such as, Rich cake, Love cake, Yule log, Breudher, Stollen, salted beef and beef smore, all washed down with a glass of aunt Matildas’ king coconut wine. The meal would be completed with a moist kiss from the lips of Jackie or Rachel. The scribe, Carl Muller talks about some of these Dutch dishes and talks more of the Burgher lasses who made them!
I recollect making Christmas cake as a child. At times, I would accompany my father to Pettah where we would carefully select the desired ingredients. This was before the advent of air conditioned shopping in supermarkets, which is today, a lifestyle for many in Colombo. Mother made the cake garnished with her genuine love. Today, a kilo of cashew nuts sells at Rs 4,000/-. Many housewives agree that the price of the main ingredients is on the rise.
Making cakes and puddings take time. Christmas cake has its origins in the 16th Century taking shape as a boiled plum cake. Soon, the Scottish cake, the Whisky Dundee became a Christmas special, and the foundation of our rich cake. The woman of today is empowered with education, mobility and foreign perfume. Thus, apart from the ageing aunts, a good majority in Sri Lanka would desire to buy their cakes from five star hotels and other reputed coffee shops, which is fine. The art of crafting marshmallows and almond milk toffees among our women is becoming extinct. Maybe, the Burgher ladies who migrated to Australia still carry on this majestic skill set. Most of the traditional cooking methods of Christmas were lost with such migration. Ice cream from the supermarket is an easy dessert. I was once served vanilla ice cream topped with a local thala guli, real fusion dessert!
Our local Chefs Guild must be praised for maintaining top standards in food preparation and presentation. Our chefs have won gold medals, beating their European rivals. I spoke to veteran hotelier, Mr. Shanthikumar, Director of Ramada Hotel.
He is one man who has witnessed the transformation of cuisine in Sri Lanka over a period of three decades and also holds the important portfolio of President, Colombo City Hotels Association and Vice President, Tourist Hotels Association of Sri Lanka. Mr.Shanthikumar said, traditional Christmas goodies will remain in demand, while there is room for innovation. However, he emphasized that within the innovation of various cuisine it’s important to retain the basic ingredients. When asked about wine consumption he said, today’s connoisseur has a variety of wine, but prices have increased in comparison to the past decade.
Transshipment and convenience along with extended spending capacity via credit cards has definitely altered our Christmas culinary trends. A notable advance in Sri Lankan food trends during December is the use of wine. We are passionate about our sterling tea. Now, this passion seems to even embrace wine. There are many importers who bring in the best wines, which do cost much. Then again, wine is a drink that requires careful fermentation and ageing. There are creative housewives who excel in this art. I met up with a talented lady, Mrs.Shanthi Handunetti, quite a local expert. She turns out some amazing flavours gained by experience, using very basic methods of preparation that would perhaps astonish the French.
On the psychological factor of consuming wine, it’s fast becoming accepted as a ‘decent drink’ as it self-righteously vindicates the patron as compared to ‘hard’ liquor whereby you’re bestowed with a complimentary hangover! Another trend that has been around for a decade is the use of cheese. Various foreign cheeses in wedges and wheels have made their way to our tables, often ferried by visiting relatives domiciled overseas. The blue veined Stilton is brilliant. I have thankfully received some from Uncle Godfrey in Sydney.
Many homes are beginning to experiment with turkey. Cooked turkey on sale is again a rather expensive affair. Even local poultry farms have taken to rearing the bird, targeting to deliver in December. One year I was fortunate to relish a muscovite duck, courtesy of uncle Justin Alvis who flies here to avoid the Canadian winter. I doubt we would reach the stage of replacing our yuletide rice and curry lunch by making Broccoli Consommé, Smoked Roe with Asparagus, Steak done to medium rare and Strawberry flan.
While a few Christian families and some hotels maintain the rich heritage of Christmas cakes, desserts and puddings, others have opted to become complacent with eating what can be termed as an ‘Asian Christmas’ meal. This is perhaps the offspring of ethno- religious integration, a very good element, and should penetrate the entire island.
While focusing on the scintillating cuisine, one must reflect on food for the soul, the spiritual essence of Christmas. Happy cooking, enjoy the extended fellowship and a blessed Christmas to you all.
Deus Vobiscum