The hills are laden with many surprises. I was eager to experience them all. On a busy Monday morning I set out with Gamini, in search of the salubrious climate of Wellawaya. The morning traffic was at its peak. As we drove away from Colombo, we were able to witness the lush lemon green paddy fields, and rubber plantations.
The car made steady progress to Kuruvita, and I spotted a board advertising a lesser known waterfall, Bopath Ella. One has to travel about 2 Km on a somewhat uneven road to reach the falls. The small, yet serene falls is worth the visit. We then passed the towns of Pellmadulla, Balangoda and Haldumulla. We stop for a cup of tea. There are bottles of honey on sale. I was able to discern that some of the bottles are not ‘original’ and consist of caramelized sugar. The old man seated on a stool grins at me, displaying betel stained teeth. We proceed towards Nikapotha, a solitary town nestled amid dense thickets of trees. Some brown monkeys are seated on the road, and move away with a sign of defiance. The bright red Post Office building stands out like a sentinel in this village. We move onto the next town, Koslanda.
After a while, we pass a herd of buffaloes, partly immersed in a pool of mud. Wellawaya is a reasonably developed town. About 4 Km from the main town we traverse the village road. A tractor loaded with king coconuts passes us. Shortly we reach the Kaduruketha villas of the Jetwing Group. The ancient Walauwa has been brilliantly restored, with 25 spacious, cozy chalets. My chalet has an awesome view of the robust Poonagala mountain range.
As I come out to the deck, a peacock stares at me inquisitively. Wellawaya, as I would soon discover, is a bird watcher’s paradise. I enjoy a succulent lunch, which finely showcases village style rice and curry, with Naminda. It’s nice to see the staff clad in traditional sarongs greeting me with Ayubowan. The swimming pool is built to replicate the ancient pool of Galabedda Bisso Kotuwa, built by King Parakramamabahu for his beloved Queen. It was very refreshing to note that paddy is cultivated and harvested by 32 families in the village, who sell the paddy back to the hotel. This is a fine example of agro-tourism.
Unassuming life
After lunch, I caught up with naturalist Hasantha Lokugamage, an expert on wildlife. We begin a walk through the village, armed with binoculars. We soon encounter some peacocks dazzling their majestic feathers. I also spotted grey hornbills, black hooded oriole, paradise fly catcher, ash doves and a kingfisher. The villagers greet us. As we walk through a field we witness some white Ibis (a bird).
The village of Sudupanawela has many green paddy fields. Villagers have grown the Gajamadara tree, whose poison fruit keeps elephants away. Hasantha directs me towards a sand path to the lake known as, Dhivugahawatte wewa, the adjacent lands were once an ancient battlefield. A crocodile eyes us, remaining submerged in the lake. I am informed that elephants also come to this lake.
A villager approaches me with a plastic jug, extending the vessel to me. I take it with some caution, and find that the cup is filled with toddy. I take one sip, to please him. It is indeed very sweet. I hand the jug back to him, hoping he is not offended. The village folk lead a simple unassuming life. We trek back to Kaduruketha, and find a large Iguana (thalagoya) crossing the road. After a delicious meal that consisted of a cool combination of fried khelmuwa and fried chicken I go to sleep. Early next morning I have to climb to the top of the Diyalauma waterfalls!
Hasantha is ready by 5.45 am. Gamini also decides to join us on this adventure. It is advisable to do this trek of one hour, before having your breakfast. We drive towards the Beregala road. Some schoolchildren wave as the car passes by. We witness the mountains covered with eucalyptus and pine trees, planted here in the 1950s, introduced as a commercial timber tree. The rigid straight trees were used as posts to sustain the network of electricity wires. I see the newly built houses for people who lost much in the landslide that occurred two years ago. The path begins inside a section of the Poonagala tea estate.
We climb, with Hasantha leading the way. Soon we spot some fresh elephant dung, which makes me mildly cautious. One does not wish to meet an elephant at such close quarters! After about 35 minutes of brisk walking we come to Uda Diyaluma.
The view is quite captivating, as the air is more cooler. After a 10 minute break we begin to walk across the mountain that is covered with citronella plants, whose extract is a popular mosquito repellant. In another 30 minutes we have achieved our mission - we stand victoriously at the topmost sprout of the cascading Diyaluma falls, at 720 feet. The water originates from Poonagala Oya, a tributary of Kuda Oya. The brilliant view is worth the effort. We spot two large serpent eagles soaring majestically above us. Beyond this mountain range is the Udawalave National Park. After a short rest and breakfast, we begin the descent. Some wild bulls cross ahead of us.
After lunch we set out again, this time in search of some ancient Buddhist heritage sites.
The first such site is the Dhematamal Vihara, where it is said Prince Saddhatissa was kept in hiding by a kind monk, as the Prince had argued with his brother Prince Dutugemunu. The monk had subsequently made peace between both brothers and Prince Saddhatissa was put in charge of the kingdom’s agriculture.
First hospital
I visited Maligawila, a sprawling forest monastery complex of the 7th century, where hundreds of monks once lived. The massive 14 metre-Buddha statue has been restored. A few metres away, I am told are the ruins of Kanagama - probably the first hospital for the blind in Sri Lanka.
Today, only a few stone columns stand. We walk down a sand path and enter the Pathma Vihara monastic complex, built and sustained by Prince Agga Bodhi. Here, elevated on a rock formation is the 12-metre statue of the Bodhisattva, built according to Mahayana tradition by King Dappula 1. En route we pass Yuthanagamuwa.
From Jetwing Kaduruketha you can take another 4 km drive and visit Buduruwagala. It is believed to be one of the first attempts of rock carving in ancient Sri Lanka. You can witness a
massive 52-foot Buddha statue in the centre flanked by two sets of carvings, one depicting the Bodhisattva, flanked by goddess Tara and also the image of one Vajirapani. A large forest squirrel, dandu lena hurries across the path to the restaurant.That night I had a spicy curry served with miniature roast paan - an innovative baked delight. Wellawaya has many places to be discovered, with an abundance of nature.
You can immerse yourself in the lifestyle of the village. From here you can visit four national parks at Yala, Lunugamwhera, Uda Walave and Gal Oya. In two hours you can also drive to Arugam Bay and to Nuwara Eliya. Thus, Wellawaya is the perfect destination to unwind and relax.